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Maasai Mara triangle, on Kenya's SW border |
The road to the Maasi Mara was really
rough. The last 40 miles were on an
unpaved dirt, rocky, pothole- and washout-infested road. The pounding on your butt and back has named this
part of the trip "The Maasi Massage".
It took over two hours. All I
could think about was: we gotta go BACK
down this darn road two days from now.
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Our tent. Glam camping at its finest! |
The route took us through farm land and
ranch land. It started out as the same
dry, dusty, scrubby roads we've traversed since arriving, with all the usual
trash on the roadside. But gradually, it
got greener, lusher, and hillier.
Livestock got more and more sparse, and we see a zebra or two.
Finally, we arrived at the safari camp,
sore butt notwithstanding. The camp was
nestled back in a cove of bushes and tall trees. The entire staff was out there to greet us,
most dressed up in their bright red and blue traditional Maasi attire.
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Our safari wagon and Fred, our gude |
Joan and I were led down a footpath to
our accommodations for the next two nights: a big tent. It was fully furnished with a king-sized bed,
plus electric lights and a bathroom with running water. Now THIS is glam camping! We were instructed to always zip the tent
closed and lock the zippers WITH A PADLOCK.
The danger: monkeys, who had evidently figured out how to unzip a tent,
get inside, and wreak havoc. Our
instructions also included a warning to not walk around after dark without a
guide, as there were dangerous wild animals about who will eat you.
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We saw LOTS of giraffs |
That afternoon we went out for our first
official safari tour with Fred, our guide.
In a previous era, a "safari" meant toting along guns and
other weapons, with the goal of killing animals and bringing home
"trophies". Well today our
only "weapons" were cameras and binoculars. But the adventure and spirit of the safari
remained!
Our vehicle was a big, rugged Land
Rover. It had 4-wheel drive, a diesel
engine, manual transmission, huge wheels, heavy-duty shocks, a snorkel to the
engine for traversing streams, and two big sun roof openings and room for seven
passengers. This beast could go
virtually anywhere.
What did we see? Well, we saw:
giraffes; wildebeests; gazelles; dik-diks (a tiny deer); warthogs;
secretariat birds; monkeys; zebras; buffalo.
And all sorts of birds and other wild critters. Amazing!
Incredible! There just aren't enough
adjectives.
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Hey sis, wake up, I'm gonna go catch me a giraffe |
The highlight of the day was when we came
upon a group of three young female lions, snoozing in the grass. Several giraffes were nearby. One of the lions wakes up, stretches, sees
the giraffes, and decides that she'd like to catch herself one of them. She stealthily creeps toward a clump of
bushes, with the goal of keeping the bushes between herself and the
giraffe. Her target giraffe, of course,
knows exactly where she is. In fact, ALL
the nearby giraffes are watching this encounter with rapt attention. As are we humans.
The lioness creeps closer. Finally the giraffe decides that this is
close enough, and turns and breaks into a gallop. The lion springs out of the bushes and gives
chase - for about three seconds. She
quickly realizes that this is a totally worthless endeavor and there is no way
in heck she's going to catch a full-grown giraffe, much less bring one
down. So she turns around and ambles
lazily back to her companions to resume her nap.
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Stalking a giraffe |
And we saw all of this in live action!
This place is beautiful beyond
compare. Rolling green hills, with low mountains
in the background. Solitary acacia trees
poking up out of the plain. Dense clumps
of bushes hugging a creek. A constant
cacophony of bird chirps and chatter. And of course the weather is perfect. It is a huge contrast to Hell's Gate, where
the dry conditions clearly stresses the animals. Here, the animals all seem healthy and
vigorous.
That evening, we sat around the fire pit,
rehashing the events of the day.
Standing close by was our "guard", a Maasi knowledgeable in
defense in case a nocturnal predator comes around. (Not very likely, however, as the fire scares
them away.)
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View of landscape, with acacia trees and giraffes in the distance |
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Family of monkeys. Keep them out of your tent! |
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